01
A week in northern Tenerife
Seven days from Icod, with what must be booked weeks ahead and what you decide in the morning depending on the weather. A real itinerary, not a wish list.
The island's other side
North Tenerife
Green, volcanic, and with towns where people actually live. The north is the part of Tenerife that does not appear in resort brochures, and from Icod everything is reachable: Garachico, Teno, Chinyero, Anaga and Teide by two different roads.
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01The west
Garachico, Teno and Chinyero
Minutes to the west lies Garachico, the island's wealthiest port until the 1706 eruption buried it, and which now lives off the natural pools that same lava left behind. Beyond it, Buenavista and the Teno massif, with Punta de Teno and Masca, both under regulated access. And above, Chinyero: Tenerife's last eruption, in 1909, its lava field still black.
02The east
Puerto de la Cruz, La Orotava and Anaga
Eastwards along the northern motorway lie Los Realejos with the Rambla de Castro trail, La Orotava with its pine-balconied old town, Puerto de la Cruz with the Botanical Garden and Playa Jardín, and at the island's far end the Anaga Rural Park, a Biosphere Reserve since 2015.
03Above
Teide, from the good side
Driving up to the national park from the north has an advantage few mention: you pass through the sea of clouds. On a 'panza de burro' day you leave the house under grey sky and twenty minutes later you are above it, with Teide clear ahead.
Guide
Guides for this area
02
Tenerife without the crowds: where the queues are not
Tenerife without the crowds: the island takes millions of visitors yet still has places nobody goes. Which ones, why they stay quiet and what time to arrive.
03
Walks near Icod
Walks near Icod de los Vinos: Rambla de Castro, Barranco de Ruiz, Chinyero and more, with official distance, climb and grade, and which ones need a permit.
04
Chinyero: walking on the last eruption
In 1909 Tenerife erupted for the last time. A century on, the lava field is still black. Which PR-TF 43 variant to pick for the distance you want.
05
Rambla de Castro: the north's best walk
4.36 flat kilometres between palm grove and cliff, with a 17th-century manor and Tenerife's first steam engine. The most rewarding walk in the north.
06
Getting to Teide from Icod
The two possible routes from the north-west, which one to take and when, what happens with ice in winter, and why we do not quote an exact drive time.
07
Reaching the summit of Teide: the permit
Teide summit permit: since January 2026 it costs €15 if you do not live in Tenerife. How to book on Tenerife ON, when the quota opens and what has changed.
08
Stargazing in Tenerife on your own, no tour needed
Teide and the summits renewed their Starlight certification in February 2026. How to go up on your own, when, and what to bring so you do not freeze.
09
Garachico, the town a volcano buried
Garachico, next door to Icod: Tenerife's richest port until the 1706 eruption, natural pools carved into the lava and a listed historic quarter.
10
Punta de Teno and Masca: how access works now
Private cars are banned at Punta de Teno every day, and the Masca ravine needs a booking and a boat back. The current rules, from official sources.
11
Anaga in a day from the north
Laurel forest, isolated hamlets and black beaches at the far end of the island. What you can realistically do in a day from Icod, and what needs a permit.
12
North vs south Tenerife: where to stay, and for whom
North or south Tenerife? What each side does better, what the north will not give you and who each one suits. A frank comparison to read before you book.
All of this is a day or less from Finca Julia's front door.
Finca Julia · Icod de los Vinos
And at the end of the day,
the terrace.
An old Canarian house on the hillside, with the Atlantic in front. Availability and price are on the official Airbnb listing.